That’s EXACTLY how surfing is. You nailed it. But it takes an experienced surfer to do that well. I remember hearing Carissa Moore (famous surfer) talk about how her father taught her to surf. They would spend hours sitting in the ocean and observing waves and discussing which one / which position and why. It takes a lot of hours in the ocean to get this right. Maybe there’s a metaphor in that too 🙂
That’s EXACTLY how surfing is. You nailed it. But it takes an experienced surfer to do that well. I remember hearing Carissa Moore (famous surfer) talk about how her father taught her to surf. They would spend hours sitting in the ocean and observing waves and discussing which one / which position and why. It takes a lot of hours in the ocean to get this right. Maybe there’s a metaphor in that too 🙂